Africa
- North West
At
Sea
December
6, 1942
Some
of the boys have been shaving their heads. One boy shaved all except
that part of his hair that shows outside his hat; when he removes
his hat he sure looks funny.
We have
enjoyed this trip very much, at times I still wish I was in the Navy.
It is warm and comfortable and so nice to have a comfortable bed to
lay on or rest during the day even if you want to sleep. Soon we will
have to get off, and really go to work again.
December
11, 1942
We got
here some days ago, and I should have written sooner but I have been
very busy. We arrived to find practically no mail, wish more had been
here.
The people
here don't speak English. The native language is Arabic, however you
can usually get some one who understands French or Spanish. I am popular
in my tent because I know enough Spanish to order drinks and some
foods.
Yesterday
I met a French soldier who knew about as much English as I do French,
and had about an equal knowledge of Spanish. We had a long talk and
used all three languages. His wife and children were killed by the
Germans and he is very bitter. The natives tell us the German soldiers
do not treat them as well as we do. They stole all their wine and
did not pay for it, and they have killed civilians with the bayonets.
I took
a walk up on a high mountain the other day, then down the slope to
the Mediterranean where I went swimming. It was really cold, however
I enjoyed it.
The girls
here don't remind me at all of you, they don't wear anything but a
sheet wrapped all around them including the face and head. They don't
even look human, except when the wind blows.
December
12, 1942
We are
each allowed one special Christmas letter of one sheet with delivery
in the United States guaranteed before Christmas. That will be fast
service if they make it, so I'll write also. First I am limited here
in letter writing by a number of considerations; first day light hours
are rather short, and blackout is a handicap that is hard to overcome.
We are
living in a country where a knowledge of Spanish and French would
be very handy. We have to bargain with the natives for our oranges
and tangerines. Prices vary according to how much you know about the
language. I went out yesterday and got all I could carry in my jacket
for fifty cents in American money, but a couple of other officers
got larger piles for twenty-five cents.
The country
here is beautiful, about like Bishop [editor’s note: California,
Owens Valley] in a lot of ways. We have a high mountain which we can
climb when we want that makes a wonderful view. The sky is sure blue,
and usually flecked with white clouds, and the water in Mussolini’s
Lake is usually blue and cold, but the lake is rapidly becoming our
lake, and we are pushing Old Mussy back where he belongs.
Thanksgiving
day passed without even knowing that it was Thanksgiving day, until
the official complaints concerning the mess mentioned the day. Of
course we did not have turkey, that is unlikely in war times.
December
25, 1942
Christmas
is just past, it was a beautiful day and we had a nice celebration
considering the conditions. We sent around the countryside and
bought enough turkey for everybody and also we got a barrel
of wine. After the meal was over we all sit around and played
cards.
Today
I read a newspaper account of the dramatic announcement over the radio
of the entry of American troops into Africa. I could just picture
you all sitting around listening to the radio.
Later
today we were back in the mountains and while there we bought some
eggs and chickens. My Spanish comes in handy but I had to cackle like
a hen to help out.
January
25, 1943
It is
sad but true that I have not written you as frequently as when I was
in England, however it is not because I don't think of you. It is
due to shorter days and longer nights, with no lights, due to increased
activity and other reasons. So often there is nothing to tell, except
that I am well, and that so far no bullet has my name on it, and that
I will be back as soon as I have seen Berlin with a proper escort
of American troops.
We are
eating better now than we have been, they are giving us fresh eggs
on more frequent intervals, and fresh beef twice recently. Of course
the bulk of our diet is still canned, but either we are getting use
to the canned items or they are improving their technique because
the dried eggs don't seem at all bad any more. I imagine that dried
eggs will be used considerably after the war to carry eggs over into
the winter seasons. Dried potatoes are the hardest things to handle,
they increase in bulk tremendously when soaked, and have to be handled
just right or they get mushy. One small can of dried potatoes will
make enough mashed potatoes to feed the entire unit. We get frequent
hot cakes of mornings and with the dried eggs on them are delicious.
The only
trouble we are having as far as comfort goes in this section, is the
perpetual rain, mud and the scarcity of fuel. Some say the dry season
soon starts and then it will be plenty hot for us, but I hope by that
time we are some where else.
January
27, 1943
I have
been getting some mail recently, yesterday our unit got thirty sacks
out of which I got three letters, but day before I had 18 letters
from you and today twelve. The oldest dated back to November 4, 1942.
The most
appreciated boxes right here are nut kernels, chewing gum, and candy.
We get oranges real often and they are so much more reasonable than
I expected.
January
30, 1943
Recently
I went down to the edge of the desert, where the trees are thin, and
grassy places are scarce, but where there is a nice level wet place
and grass is very green. I drove across the edge of a grassy spot;
on the other side there were some Camels. There was a great big one
with two humps, obviously the Daddy of the crowd, and a couple medium
size ones and a lot of little camels. When we first spotted them they
were standing perfectly still, as we came across the grass towards
them, suddenly the old fellow started jumping up and down and making
a loud noise with his feet on the ground, and roaring in a loud voice.
All the other camels then took off at a great rate of speed, and the
old fellow followed behind keeping them all together and moving swiftly.
Another
time when we were down on the desert proper we saw a caravan of camels
walking beside the road with loads on their backs. One had a very
peculiar gate, and when we got closer we could see he had his front
leg tied up so that he had to run on three legs. That was probably
to keep him from running off.
In the
desert there is a paved road such as we have at home, and besides
the paved road is another wide dirt road that is used by the camels
and donkeys. Most of the traffic we see is on the dirt road, and several
times a day we see a caravan of camels, donkeys, sheep and a few horses.
The local tribes seem to travel in that manner, apparently with all
their possessions with them.
While
on the desert one day I was walking along the crest of a ridge when
a tawny yellow animal slunk rapidly across the terrain ahead; after
a while I figured it must of been a female lion. I kept my eyes peeled
for quite a while but did not see her again. I judged it was about
three feet long and looked like a yellow cat.
The desert
is not at all like I expected. It is very mountainous, and very rocky.
The soil is not very sandy and I suspect would be fairly fertile if
it had enough water. The tufts of grass make little hillocks about
a foot higher than the ground in between, which is swept by the wind
to a lower level. The grass tufts are usually about a foot apart and
it makes very difficult traveling for wheeled traffic.
The most
interesting little animal here is the donkey, he stands about two
feet high and seems to be a very docile little beast. They say they
are very gentle to handle and will work for five or six years pretending
that he does not care, just waiting for a chance to kick you in the
right place. They never use lead ropes or bridles like we do, but
control their animals by voice using hobbles when the animals are
not well controlled or trained. I saw an Arab the other day driving
a four horse team entirely by continual stream of sounds that all
sounded the same to me, but they would turn left or right and back;
he must have had perfect control of the teams.
Coming
back to the donkeys, they usually are well loaded when you see them.
I have seen them in the roads with loads so high that a tall man could
not reach the top, and a woman has to run along the side and steady
the load. Incidentally the only thing that works hard over here except
the donkeys are the women.
The man
will walk along the road and donkey and women carrying heavy loads,
while he has nothing and may even be riding. The only exception that
I know of was one day an Arab was riding a bicycle, and carrying a
goat on his shoulder.
February
13, 1943
When
I first had a day off here in Africa a meal cost 30 francs or at their
current rate of exchange at that time 40 cents. Now last meal I had
in town was 380 francs or $7.60 in American money. This is partly
due to the increased price of the franc, and partly due to the fact
that I get delicacies off the ration. Frankly I don't think I would
have eaten there if I had known what it would cost me, but it was
the best meal I have had since I left the States.
February
22, 1943
We are
commencing to get a few nuts locally now, almonds and English walnuts
mainly. We have to buy them in some down town place in order to purchase
the nuts, as they are not close here.
At long
last I got a little time off. I can't tell you how much, but I will
tell you what I did. I went to town and first thing I did was to rent
a bath tub, filled it with hot water and relaxed in that for an hour.
That was the most heavenly experience I could think of having experienced
in six weeks. Then I got out of there, and saw the line waiting to
use the tub looking daggers at me, (they all had watches out, but
what do I care), then I got a beautiful shoe shine from an Arab kid
on the street. From there to call on all the people that I knew, and
some I did not know. I met a wonderful family in that town when I
was there some time back, and while I was calling on some other people
I knew at their business places, and practicing up on my Spanish I
ran into the son of this family I spoke of. He insisted that I come
around and spend the rest of the day at his house. I finally decided
to go, although I had accepted a dinner invitation from a French Officer,
and wanted to make a few other calls, but the boy insisted and along
I went, and had a wonderful time. The family is old stock, and real
people. The grandmother speaks Spanish only, the mother speaks Spanish
and French and the daughters speak both and a little Arabic and English.
The baby, (fourth generation under the same roof) speaks French only.
When I got there the oldest lady answered the door and was she glad
to see me. All the women were keeping the house and fires burning,
and they invited me in, gave me some brandy and chattered.
The family
sure does have a rich background and the war has caused them plenty
of misery but they do not whine. They certainly go out of their way
to be nice to us American Army fellows. I believe every officer but
one in our outfit has been there for a meal. They have a baby aged
three, another aged five, and the one who has just passed three was
not born yet when her father was captured by the Germans. She and
the boy sat on my lap lots, and I taught him some of the tricks I
put Patricia through, but the little girl was afraid at being thrown
up in the air. Her mother was probably beautiful at one time, but
shows her suffering in her face. She, the Mother, speaks Belgium-
French only and I could not talk to her.
After
school was out, a friend of the daughter who teaches in the school,
and one of the daughters who goes to high school and a friend of hers
arrived on the scene, then the place was really lively. The two sons
came in bringing a boy friend with them, rolled back the rug, started
the victrola and we all danced.
After
a while I excused myself because I had a dinner engagement, and they
insisted I had to eat with them. The two sons escorted me up the rendevous
and upon finding the French officer gone insisted that I return to
the house with them for supper. I enjoyed it very much. At supper
I was especially impressed with the baby, we had reached the third
course before there was anything on the table that the baby could
eat, but she sat patiently until they gave her something to eat. No
complaints or noise from her. After supper we were sitting around
eating almonds, when the teacher found a double kernel in one, so
she asked me if I would play a game with her called Philistine. I
agreed, and we each ate a kernel, then we both told each other what
we wanted them to do. The next time we met we were supposed to say
"good morning Philistine", the one who said it first won,
and the other had to do whatever it was that had been agreed on in
the first place. I think I won, but she claims she did, anyhow she
thought I would not be back for a month, so I popped in the next day
unexpectedly, but she was quick as a flash, and it was a tie. She
had made the request for some candy, so I had a sack of gum-drops
I gave her, and she was to play on the piano for me, but it sure needed
turning.
February
25, 1943
Recently
I saw something that I never expected to see, and it will be hard
to convince people of it when I get back to the states. But for half
an hour we had hail on the desert! I was extremely surprised, especially
as I had just sent all the transportation away on errands, and was
caught with some stuff that I would rather had not gotten wet. The
desert is a surprising and beautiful place, however I was never very
good at describing scenery. When you awake in the morning a bright
moon is shining all over the place and the desert is lit up like a
show window. You force yourself out of the tent into a cold desert
air that is peculiarly damp for the desert, and is usually below freezing.
With a great effort of will power you get yourself dressed, and thank
your lucky stars that you are the mess officer, and can hurry down
to the kitchen to inspect breakfast, and incidentally back yourself
up against the stove. As they serve breakfast and it grows later the
sun breaks across the horizon. The sky is such a deep blue that it
makes you think of home and Patricia's eyes. Here and there across
the sky is a little patch of white sky which is taking on a pinkish
glow on the eastern edge. The eastern sky itself is gradually getting
redder and redder until it looks almost angry. Perhaps it is mad about
having to get up so early too. The sun is almost human in its reactions,
it gets all red and angry when it has to get up.
You start
out the day with everything you own on your cold body, and by nine
you can take off your overcoat, by ten you are down to shirt, and
by eleven you have to start fighting with yourself to keep from taking
off the shirt. Ho, Hum, such is life.
March
9, 1943
I am
sorry that I have not written you lately, but I had a little FLURRY
of work that kept me until too late to write before lights out.
March
16, 1943
I will
just have time for a very few lines, but want you to hear from me
any how.
I sometimes
don't date my letters because of censorship and some times I don't
know what day it is. The censors don't like dates on some things.
April
3, 1943
I have
lost all track of time, but I think it has been about three weeks
since I wrote any letters. There has really nothing happened that
would pass the censor, but I have been right busy, but thought I must
write you a letter.
About
a week ago I got 50 letters from you all at one time and they were
dated all the way from December to March 9th. I have been reading
them in what time I had, and just finished the last one today. I have
had no letters since. I like that daily letter, even if they do reach
me in big batches. In that same large batch from you were ten others
from relatives and friends, which I have not answered but had to destroy
them because of regulations. I hope to answer their authors if I can
remember the contents, but from now until we get another garrison
tour I will be lucky to write to you as often as I would like.
I have
not seen a nurse or female of any variety in uniform since I came
to Africa, and females I have seen are no credit to the human race.
About
two weeks ago all the Officers of this unit were invited to dinner
with a French Official’s family. Six of us accepted and since
his household consisted of three women and himself it was not so terribly
unbalanced. The governess of his children sat between "Doc"
and myself. She spoke fairly good English, and we tried out a little
French on her.
It was
beyond all doubt the best meal I have had since I left the states.
There was the most delicious tender steak I have ever tasted. He served
lots of his best wine. The cook stirred up a job which the governess,
(known by Blondie) said was mostly eggs and air, baked to a golden
brown and was grand. They called it souffle. They also had French
fried potatoes and French fried carrots which were very good.
We have
a new Officer who I suspect was a New York gangster before the war
from the way he handles a Tommy gun and his remarks. I like him fine,
and he is in my section. He was at the dinner also, and has tried
to teach me some French. He is of Russian origin and quite a linguist.
Blondie and I were conversing about the meaning of some American slang
word, and he attempted to butt in, and she told him "I do not
speak with you." I don't think she quite meant it the way it
sounded, but sure hushed him, especially since he thinks he is a lady
killer.
April
7, 1943
So far
they are feeding us pretty well and we are getting plenty of everything
in the food line.
The weather
had been beautiful lately, and every one seems fairly contented here.
April
29, 1943
This
is just to let you know that I am still alive and kicking, but I have
not been to bed lately, so don't expect much mail now for a while.
May
7, 1943
I am
well fed, healthy, but over-worked. As long as we get ammunition and
food we won't kick about anything else.
May
20, 1943
We have
been having the most wonderful weather lately. The sun shines nearly
all the time.
One night
not so long ago I was working late as usual in Survey Center. About
midnight I stepped outside for a minute, and was horrified to see
a convoy of trucks going by with lights on. Frankly I was scared,
and I waited expectantly for the bombing and shelling that was bound
to follow. It was a beautiful night for bombing such a target, blacker
than the inside of your hat, with stars scattered through the sky.
The trucks
kept on rolling, and nothing happened; gradually I realized what had
happened. The Germans had surrendered. I sat down in the middle of
the field all alone and watched. It was the most beautiful sight I
had ever seen. The tears came to my eyes; the FIRST lights.
The next
morning I went out into the plain to observe the results of the battle.
As I came over the hill onto the plain, I could see the roads in all
directions as far as the eye could see, choked with traffic. Women
trudging along barefoot, carrying their household goods on their backs
and leading their children. Old men and young boys driving herds of
cattle and sheep. Wagons drawn by horses, and often, loaded with mirrors,
tables, chairs, plows, and such choice impedimenta of farmers' life
that he had taken with him when he fled the battle-field. The civilians
were returning to the farm. It certainly made a picturesque view,
and I felt like crying again. To me it was symbolic of what we are
fighting for, fighting that the farmer may return to his land and
live in Peace for another generation.
Of course
the scene was still not peaceful, because the mine fields had not
been cleared. Even as I looked, an occasional cow would stray from
the road and step on a mine. One ox-drawn wagon took a short cut,
hitting a mine and killing an ox, wrecking the wagon, but all that
would soon be straightened out, as the Army engineers gradually remove
the mines and the farmers return the soil to its normal function of
raising good things to eat.
I am
working hard, trying to do my part to get an early end to this war,
so that the American's can return to their farms, as these civilians
are returning to theirs!
June
7, 1943
I had
occasion to use your dictionary the other day. I was shopping for
some bread to supplement the diet and had to go before the local ration
board. We had a great time looking up words and without the book I
probably would not have gotten the bread. Needless to say I got the
bread to "feter l' victorie" about two slices per man, and
did they enjoy it.
When
I first got to North Africa I found a natural cork which I carried
for a few days intending to send it to Patricia, but decided not to,
after living in cork forests so long.
Since
writing you, the unit had an invitation to send some Officers to what
we laughingly termed an Arab open house. The local Caid, which is
Arabic for Sheikh, gave the dinner in honor of the American forces,
and I went as part of the group from our unit. In our party were the
French Judge of the District, the French Administrator of Civilian
Affairs, and the Frenchman who owns all the land in this end of Africa,
each acting as guest or host for a carload of American Officers.
We were
the last to arrive, except for the mayor of the district, whose car
had 'broken down,' the polite French term for out of gas.
As we
approached the Caid's house we saw all the men of the local tribe
lined up on grounds in double line, standing in line like soldiers
on parade, all grins and smiles. The musicians started playing as
we started down the line. The main instrument was a sort of fife,
on which was produced a continuous sound; the short simple refrain
was repeated again and again for nearly and hour. The rest of the
music was the continuous beat of a drum.
The Arab
in the line were dressed in every conceivable item of discarded soldier
equipment, the favorite being a shirt of 'long handled' wool underwear
worn as pants with neckline part down about their knees. All of this
was crowned by a snow white turban.
When
we finally passed the line we reached the house, a surprisingly modern
place of the California or Spanish type of architecture. It was snow
white, with a patio, a glassed in porch, and screened porches, which
were used as first and second dining rooms. There was a typically
French kitchen with two charcoal burners and wood range. Off the kitchen
was a bath, and in the center a master bedroom; opposite the kitchen
was a guest room.
We found
a receiving line of the Caid and a lot of French notables on the back
porch. The Caid offered us swimming suits, including his wife's and
we went swimming from his beautiful beach, and dripped water all over
the Caid's guest room. As we dried we heard music again and went out
to the back yard, where they were roasting twelve sheep all at once
over charcoal. There seemed to be a kitchen force of 30 working under
a French chef. An Arab patiently turned each carcass on its stick
while another basted it with butter.
While
waiting for dinner to be served we were honored by being shown a peculiar
dance, which I take is a sort of ritual with the Arabs, and was done
by five young dancing girls.
In the
meantime, the Caid turned his stables of Arab steeds over to us and
we rode around the field at breakneck speed. We then went for a ride
in his speed boat. By three o'clock we were starved and welcomed dinner.
I found a place-card between two Englishmen, opposite two Frenchmen,
and one seat removed from the Mayor.
We had
mutton soup, seminola, then the piece de resistance. Our plates were
removed after the seminola; we had only a spoon, with a knife placed
here and there. The meat was served as it came from the pit, simply
placed flat on the table cloth, the carcasses laid end to end; five
at our table. We attacked the mutton with whatever implement was at
hand, and even as the Mayor, we tore off a rib with our bare hands
and dipped into the dressing of onions, mushrooms, and butter. I wish
I could say we picked the carcass clean, but we seemed hardly to have
touched it, and it was delicious.
There
were after dinner speeches by all the French notables, and the Colonels,
through interpreters, which were roundly cheered.
Soon
after the party I went with the Colonel as his aide on a trip, which
was supposed to have served as a pleasure trip for me, but turned
out badly. I talked the Colonel into staying at a hotel, which was
infested with bed-bugs, and the next day I took sick. The Colonel
left me in a hospital along the way, so I turned out not much good
as a companion. When I recovered a friend took me back by plane. We
stopped off at Algiers and did the town. The Red Cross club, is sure
doing a good job in the rear areas. We sat in the Red Cross club,
ate free ice-cream, read funny papers and decided the war wasn't so
bad after all.
Funny
thing; when you're ill first in the hospital none of the nurses seem
pretty or interesting; then just when you start to change your mind,
out you go!
June
19, 1943
I received
a citation and silver star, but the order giving them was confidential,
so can't tell you how I got them. I have asked permission to send
the order home and think they will then let me tell you something
about it.
I received
the Silver Star while in Tunisia, for establishing artillery control
survey in what was then "No Mans Land" while under fire,
"Which enabled our artillery to occupy the surveyed positions
immediately upon advancing thus giving us an advantage in the artillery
duels". I got the Citation for leading patrols into forward areas
and keeping my unit accurately informed as to the disposition of the
enemy, which I can't make clear to you because I was keeping up my
survey work, and any information that I sent back on the enemy was
purely incidental. I won the Silver Star in the "Gasa El Guettar"
area, and the citation for work in general in that area and also in
the early part of the Korian engagement.
Today
being Sunday I don't have as much to do as usual, and after I finish
this I want to wash all my uniforms, re-pack all my equipment and
go censor a lot of the mail. After that I hope to go to the beach
and take a bath in the Mediterranean.
Don't
believe anything you read in the magazines or in the papers about
life in North Africa. They are all very much exaggerated and I almost
think most of them are written by authors who never saw Africa. Certainly
never got out of Algiers, Oran and Constantine. They think they see
London, they have seen England and are qualified to write on anything
relative to the troops in England. They seem to think the way to find
out about the conditions in Africa is to visit the Big Cities and
listen to the stories told by the bar flies in those places.
They
see mostly soldiers who have just got to Africa, and want to pretend
like they have been here since the campaign started. The picture is
entirely different in the field. The majority of the troops naturally
are not in the towns or allowed to go in the towns.
The majority
of the Red Cross clubs facilities are in the towns and are available
only to service troops stationed in town.
I have
never seen any U. S. O. outside of the States. The British have similar
units which do go into the fields but not the Americans that I have
seen of.
Of course
we came here for business, not for recreation, but it doesn't pay
to devour all you read.
A couple
of attempts I saw of a few reporters to tell our miseries in the field
are just about as badly exaggerated the other way. If we could get
more cigarettes, and better mail service, things would not be half
bad.
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